We woke up early and after checking out from our hotel, walked to New Delhi Railway Station to board the 12029 Swarna Shatabdi Express to Amritsar Junction which leaves New Delhi at 07:20 AM.
I mentioned that Rajdhani Express trains are the most premium overnight trains. Similarly, the Shatabdi Express trains are the most premium one-day (not a sleeper) trains in Indian standards. They do not have any first class amenities like Rajdhani Express but are the most consistent in maintaining high speeds of around 130-150 km/ph. A fully air-conditioned train with meals included and high speed runs, it is the best train for a one day journey. Also, the route between New Delhi and Amritsar is awesome. We departed New Delhi on time and as we went out of the city, the views started getting better.
We were passing through huge farms owned by farmers living in small villages. There were labourers working in the fields and there was farming machinery. Such views are rare in the financial capital, Mumbai. We were passing through the states of Haryana and Punjab which have the perfect conditions for commercial farming. With a constant water supply from the Ganga and Yamuna River and summer and winter seasons, these 2 states have the perfect conditions for growing crops which are a staple diet in Indian Cuisine like Wheat and the 3 millets- Jowar, Bajra and Ragi.
We reached Amritsar via Ambala, Ludhiana and Jalandhar with a delay of 30 minutes. We took a rickshaw to our hotel which was at a walking distance from the Golden Temple and the Jallianwala Bagh. So, after having lunch and a short rest, we went to the partition museum.
For those of you who do not know about the partition, India got independence from Britain on 15th August 1947. But, this independence came at a cost. Just a day before 15th August, the Indian Sub-Continent was divided into India, East Pakistan (Bangladesh from 1971) and West Pakistan (Today's Pakistan). This partition was done by Britain on the basis of religion, a classic example of "Divide and Rule". All the Hindus in Pakistan migrated to India and the Muslims from India to East/West Pakistan. That was the biggest mass migration in history. There were clashes between Hindus and Muslims and many migrants died of hunger. People used to cramp into packed trains just to cross the border. This partition had a long lasting effect on both India and Pakistan. Today, there are no religious clashes but the diplomatic relations between India and Pakistan are not good. Many families were forced to stay in 2 different countries and are not able meet because of immigration issues caused due to tension amongst India and Pakistan. So, the Partition Museum explained the migration which was filled with loss of life and its effects in today's times.
After remembering our country's past, we went to the World's most famous Gurudwara, Harmandir Sahib, A.K.A Golden Temple.
The temple was built by the 4rth Guru of Sikhism, Guru Ramdas. The Gurudwara is made of pure gold which makes it look magnificent. It is built in the middle of a pond called Amritsarovar (Amrit- Nectar; Sarovar- Pond). It is believed that when someone takes a dip in the pond, all of his/her sins are washed away. Thus, many Sikh devotees take a dip in the Sarovar. The best part was all people regardless of religion, language, cast, financial status etc. are allowed to pray to god, have a wholesome meal and volunteer. Whenever someone enters the premises of any Gurudwara, he/she must cover their head with cloth. Also, in the Golden temple, one must walk around the pond in clockwise direction before entering the shrine to pray. We had come in the evening and there was a huge line of devotees wanting to see the shrine. So we just saw the shrine from the outside. As the sky became dark, the golden colored lights on the shrine went on. That is the best view of Golden Temple one can ever get. Also, the atmosphere was very relaxed and peaceful. People were chanting prayers and singing devotional songs. Some were heading to the Langar after their darshan (prayers) to have a wholesome meal. We had a great time at the temple.
It was dinner time. Now, when you are in Punjab, you can't avoid the classic Punjabi Vegetarian Lunch/Dinner. Punjab is well known for its pulses like Kidney beans (Rajma in Hindi) and Chickpeas (Chole in Hindi). One must have some of the popular Punjabi dishes like Rajma chawal (Rice with a curry of Kidney beans), Lachha Paratha (type of flatbread) along with Dal Makhani (A stew of whole black lentils A.K.A Urad dal).
DAL MAKHANI AND LACHHA PARATHA
So, we went to a very famous restaurant which is over 100 years old and serves proper Punjabi lunch and dinner named "Kesari Da Dhaba. We had a Lachha Paratha with Dal Makhani, the best way to end our first day in Amritsar.
DAY - 5 (12th March 2018)
It was the last day of our trip which we started again at the Golden Temple but this time, we went inside the shrine.
The inside of the shrine was nothing less than a royal room in a grand palace. The holy book of Sikhism called "Guru Granth" was kept neatly in the center and all the devotees were praying in front of that book. We also prayed and completing our darshan in the Golden Temple.
Next, we went to the Jallianwala Bagh, known for the infamous Jallianwala Bagh Massacre which took place on 19th April 1919. During the month of April 1919, the Viceroy of India imposed a Martial law in Amritsar according to which, there cannot be any gatherings of more than 5 people at a public place. This law was imposed following a violent uprising against the British Rule. But, on that day, due to the auspicious festival of Baisakhi, many people had come to Amritsar from various regions of Punjab mainly to visit the Golden Temple, unaware of the Martial Law. Thus, many people were relaxing and some were peacefully protesting against the arrest of Saifuddin Kitchlew and Dr. Satyapal (2 prominent figures of the opposition in Amritsar) in the Jallianwala Bagh. When Lieutenant Governor of Punjab, Michael O' Dyer saw the scene, he ordered his troops to fire on the crowd without giving any warning.
JALLIANWALA BAGH MASSACRE (PAINTING)
All exits of the park were blocked so people tried to climb the wall to escape. Some jumped into a well in the park. No one was spared. Men, women and even small children were killed. There were almost 400 casualties and 1200 injuries. This was the most violent act ever done under the British Rule. The bullet marks made on the walls during the firing can be seen even today.
BULLET MARKS OF THE SHOOTING
THE WELL IN THE PARK
We saw the well where many people jumped to escape from the bullets. We also read about Udham Singh who murdered Dyer in London as a revenge for the massacre. Finally, we paid our respects to the people who lost their lives in the massacre. After seeing the park, we set out to do some shopping. Punjab is well known for its traditional dresses. For ladies, a Punjabi Salwar Kameez and for men, a Punjabi Kurta with a Tehmat is the best recommendation.
So, we bought a beautiful set of Salwar Kameez for my little cousin sister. After having lunch at a small punjabi restaurant, we tried a glass of Lassi which a chilled sweet drink made from a mixture of Curd and cold water topped with cream (Malai). If you want a cold drink after a meal during summers in Punjab, go for a big glass of Lassi. We also tried a sweet named "Phirni", another must dish which is available at its best only in Amritsar. It is made from Ground Rice and Milk topped with Pistachios and a layer of Edible Silver.
After a short rest, we took a taxi to the Attari-Wagah Border which is almost 35 km away.
This border is the most prominent border crossing point between India and Pakistan. But it is famous for tourists for a different reason. Every evening at 5:15 PM, a border closing ceremony takes place where both nations boast their strength. To see this ceremony, thousands of people come everyday thus filling the stands surrounding the road which crosses the border. We bought a flag to cheer and after a security check, walked to the stands to see the parade. While the ceremony was yet to start, there were patriotic songs being played on the speakers and we all danced on the songs. And the best part was that the foreign tourists were also dancing on our songs. Everyone was waving flags and the whole place was heated up with the energy.
When it ticked 5:15 PM, the Indian soldiers marched from the stands on to the road. And then came the high kicks and loud marching orders. An army instructor was firing up the crowd to shout patriotic slogans like "Baratmata ki jay"(Hail the godess Bharatmata) and "Vande Mataram". Soldiers from both the sides were boasting their strength by swirling their big moustaches, raising their hands and charging towards the crossing gate on the beat of the drums. Then they slammed open the crossing gate and after some more kicks and cheers from the crowd, the moment to close the border arrived. Everyone quietly stood at their places as the flags of both the nations were lowered. After the lowering of the flags, the border gate was officially closed for the day thus marking the end of the ceremony.
This ceremony is a must if you are in Amritsar. One can also enjoy a similar ceremony but on a slightly smaller scale at the Hussainiwala Border in Firozpur, 120 km from Amritsar. The patriotism and the energy makes the event more lively.
We had a blast on our 5 day trip to Delhi and Amritsar. We saw a mix of tradition, history, religion and the modern times. Museums, food, memorials, train journeys and what not. We enjoyed each and every bit of this trip because we planned this trip in our own style.
The next day, we were on a plane back to our home city Mumbai after a remarkable 5 days.
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